Beco – Clandestine Brazilian

by Jill Donenfeld

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A whole lotta Brazilian love comes out of this tiny little corner kitchen in the very new Beco, which popped up on Richardson between Lorimer and Union Streets last week.  Without website or phone listing (we later confirmed they don’t have a phone number yet), it was a gamble when we decided to dine at the 25 seat resto a few days ago.  The risk paid off – we had a wonderful time and wonderful food.  Start with the pao, Brazilian cheese bread that I’ve never particularly liked.  The waiter (cute, accented, smiley) told us they were made fresh to order though so we figured, what the heck? Risk #2 paid off.  The pao are fantastic.  After 3 each, I wanted more.  Luckily other apps flooded our table and prevented me from ordering another batch.

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Bruschetta, topped with tangy hearts of palm and juicy tomatoes, was very refreshing and light as was the simple salad – romaine, tomatoes, hearts of palm, oil and lime juice.

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Also, don’t miss the eggplant dip.  Accompanied by warm pita, the dip is thick, garlicky and bestows a larger portion than it seems.

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We selected a few sandwiches as our entrées.  The vegetable sandwich, which came on dark, grainy bread was one of the best of its kind that I’ve had, though not particularly Brazilian it seemed.  I slathered it with the chimichurri sauce on the table to change that though.  Perfection.  The chorizo sandwich was simply outstanding.  A split chorizo – handmade in Williamsburg by a man who “does it right” according to our sweetie waiter – gets sautéed and placed on a mini French baguette.  The waiter recommended adding chimichurri to this one as well.  A great idea.

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Go before Beco actually shows up on the radar.  And stay for dessert (passion fruit and coconut mousse for $3) and caiparhinasimg_2953

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